Parrot Health
All about your parrot's health and wellbeing
A BIRD'S EYE VIEW
Have you ever wondered why your bird tilts its head when looking at an object up close? or why and how they pin or flash their pupils? I will list some interesting facts about a bird’s eyesight below.
A bird’s vision is their most significant sense, and they rely on it greatly for their survival. Birds are prey animal; therefore, they need to beware of their surroundings at all times to prevent predatory attacks. Having their eyes placed on the sides of their head allows them to monitor movement at all angles therefore they have close to a 360° view. This type of vision is called monocular. Unlike humans, parrots have a greater visual acuity, they collect and interpret visual images more quickly. However, they do not have a great depth perception (seeing things in 3D and how far away an object is), therefore, you may notice your bird tilting its head to get much more visual information to process distance and location. They also have less developed eye muscles, combined with globular shaped eyeballs they are less able to move their eyeballs around like humans can, to put this into perspective, humans can move their eyes balls 50 degrees horizontally, but parrots can only do so at around 20 degrees, which is another reason for the cocking and tilting of their heads when looking at an object. Parrots have two fovea per eye, which operate independently. This enables them to focus on more than one object at a time.
Birds close their upper and lower eyelids only to sleep. They have a transparent third eyelid which stretches fully over the bird’s eye for blinking which sweeps across the eye from the inside to lubricate and clean the cornea. However, its main purpose is to protect the eye when heads are underneath water, and to keep the surface of the eyeball moist whilst flying. This membrane also protects the bird’s eye while maintain vision when feeding chicks or burrowing its head in places. Night vision is poor in parrots making them more vulnerable to attack at night from owls and bats. Cockatiels as a species have very poor night vision, therefore, night frights and cockatiels go hand in hand. A night light should always be available for them to prevent these night terrors. Compared to humans, parrots can distinguish more colours and see a wider range of colours due to their ability to distinguish UV light.
An owner may have seen their birds eye pinning or eye flashing. The pupil will expand or contract to control the level of light entering the eye according to the controlled movements of the iris muscles. Parrots use this as a type of body language, it is the rapid dilation and constriction of the pupil in response to external stimuli in their environment. You may be able tell your birds mood just by paying attention to their pupils, for example, an angry or anxious bird will make their body ridged and their pupils very small, hence the term “pinning.”
We have now learnt that a parrot’s eyesight is very important to them, therefore, it is imperative for owners to see an avian vet straight away if you notice any signs of an eye infection or eye injury, this is because a parrot’s eyesight can deteriorate rapidly, and blindness can be a result without quick treatment.
AN UNEXPECTED DEATH IN YOUR FLOCK
The loss of a beloved pet bird is always heart-breaking and most often comes as a huge shock, especially, if the death is unexpected. However, while the sudden death of a pet is upsetting it is important to take a moment and reflect on the welfare of the rest of your flock. If you do not know the cause of death you have got to either have a necropsy preformed on the deceased bird or have your entire flock vet checked as soon as possible! Most avian illnesses are contagious and spread like wildfire, they can be passed from one bird to the other via direct contact, bodily fluids, faecal matter, regurgitation, and feather dander.
Many people I have spoken to cannot fathom having a necropsy done on their beloved pet, however, it can be a life-or-death situation for the rest of your flock if the unknown illness is serious enough to cause death. If you opt to have the necropsy done, the body needs to be delivered to the vet clinic as soon as possible, WITHIN 24-48 hours. If you are unable to take the body to the vet the same day, you can wrap the body in a towel and place it in the fridge (NOT THE FREEZER)! If the body is frozen or 48 hours have passed, the body tissue will be too degraded to be examined, therefore, time is of the essence! Vets will return the body back to you for cremation or burial (I recommend you confirm this when you drop off the bird’s body at the clinic).
Additionally, to protect your flock from cross contamination, you need to thoroughly wash and disinfect everything your deceased bird had used in its cage, which includes all toys, bowls, accessories, perches, including the entire cage itself. All uneaten food and treats should be thrown away and accessories such as cuttlefish and mineral blocks should be removed and replaced with new ones.
A Last word of warning: many owners will allow a mate to grieve over the body for a period, however, if your bird has died of an unknown illness, DO NOT show the body to its mate as the body should be removed as soon as possible to prevent further cross contamination.
AVIAN DISEASES AND SYMPTOMS
If you notice any of these symptoms see your vet immediately.
- Aspergillosis (Respiratory tract disease) – Lack of appetite, breathing difficulties, weakness, depression and lack of coordination.
- Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD)- Feather loss, beak abnormalities, growths and unusual feather growth and development.
- Proventricular Dilatation disease (PDD) – Weight loss, vomiting, swollen crop, changes in poop.
- Candida (Overgrowths of yeasts in birds digestive system) – White lesions around and in mouth and throat, loss of appetite and vomiting.
- Psittacosis – Lethargic, eye infections, difficulty breathing, diarrhoea.
- Polyomavirus (unusual development or lack of feathers) – Loss of appetite, enlarged abdomen and diarrhoea.
AVIAN RESPIRATORY DISEASE SYMPTOMS
CLINICAL SIGNS OF UPPER AND LOWER RESPIRATORY DISEASE
UPPER RESPIRATORY DISEASE
- Open-mouthed breathing
- Change in voice
- Sneezing
- Sinus swelling –Rhinorrhea ( Rhinorrhea means runny nose)
- Nasal granulomas
- Exercise intolerance
- Shortness of breath
- Head-shaking
- Nasal discharge
- Inflamed or swollen Cere
- Stretching the neck
- Excess yawning
- Epiphora ( eyes watery )
- Swelling around the eye
- Plugged nares
LOWER RESPIRATORY DISEASE
- Tail-bobbing
- Loss of voice
- Change in vocalization
- Laboured breathing
- Exercise intolerance
- Coughing Sounds
BUMBLEFOOT
Bumblefoot is a very cute name given to very serious condition if left untreated. Bumblefoot can be caused by various reasons such as; unsuitable perches (perches that are cylinder and do not vary in diameters, sandpaper perches) filthy perches, poor diet, poor sanitation, sandpaper cage liners, lack of exercise, obesity and various underling conditions.
Placing unsuitable perches in a parrot’s cage is going to cause pressure point sores to develop, which can lead to infection. It is extremely important that natural wooden perches which are of different diameters are used in cages. Cages should be kept spotless, not only for good foot health, but to prevent bacterial and fungal infections.
The bottom of a bird’s feet should be checked regularly as part of your daily health examination of your bird. If you notice that the bottom of the bird’s feet becoming red and swollen, or if you notice calluses appearing, a vet check will be needed as soon as possible.
This type of infection can be avoided by giving a balanced diet and sufficient exercise, keeping cages clean, and by providing correct perches. (Regular wellness checks with an avian vet are always recommended for the health of a bird)
CAN VEGETABLES AND FRUIT CAUSE DIARRHOEA?
It is a misconception that fruit and vegetables can cause birds diarrhoea. Fruit and vegetables can sometimes cause “excess urine” due to the increased water content. Excess urine is called "Polyuria" and is different from diarrhoea.
Poop is made up of three components:
· Faecal matter (the green to brown solid spiral)
· Urine (the clear liquid)
· Urates ( the white to cream colour portion)
NOTE: If your parrot’s faecal matter looks like splattered pea soup with no form; your bird has diarrhoea and needs to be seen by an avian vet as soon as possible!
COMMON DISEASES IN BUDGERIGARS
CRANKER– Trichomoniasis is caused by a one celled parasite.
DIABETES– One clinical sign for Diabetes is excessive thirst.
COCCIDIOSIS– Is a single cell Protozoa infecting the digestive system.
FATTY LIVER– (Hepatic Lipidosis)- One common cause is due to an all-seed diet.
FRENCH MOULT– Is a viral Infection.
GOITRE– This is a Thyroid disorder which causes respiratory and swallowing issues.
MEGABACTERIOSIS– (Avian Gastric Yeast), this is a Fungal Infection.
MITES– Mites affect the Feathers due to parasites.
ONE EYE COLD– This can be caused by Psittacosis / Chlamydiosis - Respiratory infection.
POLYOMAVIRUS– This is s a Viral Infection.
PBFD– This is a Viral Infection.
SCALY FACE and FEET– (Knemidokoptes pilae mites), burrow into the skin leaving crust deposits.
TUMOURS– Fatty tumours or Cancerous tumours that affect the reproductive organs or kidneys.
DAILY HEALTH CHECK FOR PET BIRDS
Is it breathing? (Sounds like a silly question, but you will be surprised at how many people do not notice their bird is dead).
Is the bird breathing normally or is the breathing laboured?
Is it standing or perching evenly on both feet?
Are the birds flying around the cage or aviary normally or staying in one place or on the ground?
Are both wings held in the normal position?
Is the bird fluffed up?
Is it bright, alert, and responsive-looking around or is it depressed?
Is the head tilted to one side?
Are there any obvious swellings, or wounds?
Are there any obvious signs of discharge from eyes, nares, or ears?
Any signs of feather loss or flaking of the beak and claws?
Are both eyes clear and open?
Are the birds preening normally?
Are the bird’s droppings normal?
Are there signs that the birds have been eating and drinking?
Any changes in behaviour? Aggressive, isolated from other birds, stumbling about?
Are the birds vocal and happy to see you?
LOOKING AT THE CAGE:
Has food been eaten?
Check seed bowls, empty seed husks can make a seed dish appear full. Many birds have died from starvation due to owners mistaking empty husks as food.
Has water been consumed?
Are there any dangers in the cage such as a broken toy, jagged piece of wood sticking out, or missing toy parts?
Looking at the cage floor, are droppings normal?
A healthy active bird will have droppings scattered across the cage floor. A sick or inactive bird will have droppings in one area, usually under the perch they are sitting on.
Is there any sign of blood in the cage?
This may seem like a very long list to get through every day, however, once you have made these observations into a routine, and you have become familiar with what is normal for your bird, you will be checking for these things subconsciously. Please click on the link and read the article entitled "Early signs of illness in parrots". https://www.cockatiel-advice-101.com/parrot-health
DANGERS OF REMOVING LEG BANDS AT HOME
I’m sure many of you have heard the advice NOT to remove leg bands at home, sadly some people don’t listen which often leads to devastating consequences! I have listed below the medical reasons why this should only be performed by a qualified professional vet.
Cutting with scissors or pliers carry huge risks because sudden movement of the ring can cause serious injury such as broken bones, and total loss of the limb! Cutting with an incorrect rotator tool will cause the ring to become hot and burn the flesh underneath. If the ring is cut incorrectly such as on the medial side of the metatarsus this can cause damage to the medial metatarsal vein so the owner would have to know where this is to avoid it.
When a vet removes these rings they will often take X-rays first in severe cases to check for bone damage (fractures). The vet will often administer painkillers, antibiotics and place the bird under anesthetiser. Spontaneous bleeding can occur if there is soft tissue damage or a fracture, therefore, the vet will prepare for blood loss and stabilising the fracture in advance before the ring is removed. The vet will cut it off using a very special cooled high speed dental drill that will not cause the metal to become hot! They will also place protective dressing on the leg to prevent soft tissue damage, as well as placing a special disc underneath the ring if possible to prevent the underlying tissue from injury.
The vet will also give aftercare which may include painkillers, antibiotics and tropical medicines if necessary. So, as you can all see it is not as simple as it may seem! Please never attempt to remove leg bands at home, always seek professional medical advice and assistance!
DANGERS OF USING HOME REMEDIES
CAN I TREAT MY BIRD WITH HOME REMEDIES?
While home remedies may help in certain non-emergency situations, and can add value to your bird’s health, unless you know exactly what illnesses your bird has, you could be making the situation much worse. Some herbal remedies interfere with blood tests, and other tests, and can actually worsen your parrot’s condition. Grapefruit for example, can interfere with the absorption of antibiotics. So, please don’t waste time, and get your bird the correct medical help it needs.
DEHYDRATION SYMPTOMS AND RECIPE
Dehydration kills quickly. In many cases the cause of death is dehydration, not the illness itself.
VISIBLE SYMPTOMS OF DEHYDRATION.
- Sunken and dull eyes
- Wrinkles around eyes
- Mucous membranes in mouth dry or sticky
- Rescued skin elasticity
- Lethargy
- Weakness
- Not well formed droppings/ dry droppings or no droppings
(Electrolyte recipe for birds)
1 Cup water
2 Teaspoons Sugar
1/8 Teaspoon salt
1/8 Teaspoon Baking Soda
DO YOU GIVE YOUR BIRDS APPLE CIDER VINEGAR
Do you give your birds apple cider vinegar (ACV)? Why do you give your birds ACV? Are your giving it to them because they have a certain problem that you are trying to correct, or is it because you have just heard that it is a good thing to give? Are you using it as a preventative? Many of us jump on the bandwagon without knowing all the pros and cons of a particular medicinal treatment. ACV holds many vitamins and minerals and is used to treat and prevent many medical conditions, however, do you know that giving too much can cause multiple side effects. Below, I will list a few of the side effects it can cause when overdosed and diluted incorrectly.
· Parrots with sensitive digestive systems may find it hard to consume it.
· It can destroy the stomachs good beneficial bacteria.
· It can absorb calcium, leaving the bird deficient.
· It can cause diarrhoea.
· Weight loss.
· Undiluted ACV will burn the mouth, tongue, and digestive tract.
· If it is not diluted accurately the acidity can cause bloody stools, diarrhoea, lethargy, loss of appetite, rapid weight loss, stomach ulcers, vomiting blood, etc. Often, acidity can cause irreversible damage.
There is a lot of information out there with dosage suggestions, however, because AVC is acidic, and parrots all have different medical needs it is safer to get an accurate dosage from your own avian vet. Do not give your birds ACV daily unless it has been recommended by a vet. 2-3 times a month is plenty for an adult bird when used for health maintenance.
EARLY SIGNS OF ILLNESS IN PARROTS
If your bird exhibits these clinical signs, please be sure to make an appointment with your avian veterinarian as soon as possible!
EARLY SIGNS OF ILLNESS IN PARROTS:
- Prolonged moult or continual presence of pinfeathers
- Broken, bent and chewed feathers
- Abnormality of feathers
- Stained feathers around the nares, face or vent
- Redness, swelling, or a loss of feathers around the eyes
- Flaking skin or beak
- Baldness
- Sores on bottom of feet
- Lameness
- Shifting of body weight from one leg to the other
- Overgrown beak or nails
- Minor changes in vocalisation
- On set of Biting, which is not caused by a behavioural issue
- Change in eating and drinking habits
- Low reproduction in breeding birds
- Excess regurgitating
- Passing whole seeds or food in the droppings
- Lack of powder or dust on the feathers (Cockatoos and African Greys)
- Foot mutilation
- Weight loss
- Increased appetite
- Increased water consumption
- Bare patches
- Lesions on the skin
- Yellow urates in the droppings
- Bulky droppings
- Any change or abnormality, in colour, volume, consistency, and number of droppings
- Blood in the droppings/ EMERGENCY VISIT TO VET!
FEATHER MITES
When a bird is infested with feather mites there are symptoms you can look out for such as:
- Eye inflammation
- Missing feathers around the eyes
- Red nostrils
- Enlarged damaged nostrils
- Parrot itching
- Missing feathers or very thin feathering on the face.
Eye inflammation and red nostrils are also signs of infection; if you notice these symptoms or suspect your bird does have feather mites, please consult your avian veterinarian ASAP.
Never buy over-the-counter mite sprays, these should only be prescribed by a vet. Many birds have had life threatening reactions to these types of mite sprays.
Additionally, over-the-counter sprays and medicine don’t work well or quickly; they can mask other underlying symptoms your vet may miss which can lead to misdiagnosis.
FINDING A STRAY BIRD AND WHAT YOU NEED TO DO
If you find a stray parrot or if you are reunited with your own parrot the very first thing you need to do is have a vet appointment, this step should never be missed.
The reasons why a vet appointment is vitally important is listed below:
A captive bird will of course have no idea what it can and cannot eat out in the wild; therefore, the bird may have sampled toxic foods.
The bird has likely been drinking out of contaminated water sources.
The bird has been exposed to the elements and may be suffering from hypothermia or heatstroke.
The bird has been in contact with wild birds which may be carriers of many avian illnesses and parasites.
If the bird has been missing for a period of time it may be suffering from starvation and dehydration.
The bird of course maybe injured or sick; birds hide pain and illness very well. Therefore, a vet would have to do a full physical examination to ensure the bird is healthy.
The entire outdoor experience for a captive bird would have been severely stressful and the bird is probably in a state of extreme stress and shock when found. This type of stress and cause any underlying illness to manifest themselves.
FOUR GOLDEN RULES WHEN NURSING A SICK BIRD
Four golden rules to remember when a bird is sick: WARMTH, HYDRATION, FOOD and LIMITED HANDLING!
Warmth - a bird is unable to regulate its body temperature when sick. Therefore, they can die from hypothermia. All their energy needs to be going towards recovery, not trying to keep warm.
Hydration- a bird dies quickly when dehydrated.
Food- a bird’s metabolism is like raging furnace, without fuel it burns out. A bird needs to eat in order for its body to function properly.
Limited handling- when a bird is sick it does NOT want kisses, cuddles or scritches! The reason why the bird is not showing their owners signs to leave them alone is because it's too weak to react. The bird wants to be left alone to recover. They need to remain in their cage to receive the warmth and sleep they desperately need. Do you know a sick or injured bird can go into shock extremely quickly, meaning any sudden movements or mishandling and they can die. A sick or injured bird should ONLY be handled when 100% necessary. Additionally, when you have a sick bird, you have to be able to monitor them closely, this includes watching their droppings for changes, are they vomiting or regurgitating, are they steady on the perch, are the eating and drinking, how often are the eating and drinking etc ?! You can not monitor them this closely outside their cage while perched on your head or sitting on your shoulder. For their own safety its important they stay in the cage because if they weak their flying ability may not be good so they can fall and injure themselves. Some people will take their sick bird out the cage because they are screaming to come out. Well, a bird will always want out the cage if they are used to free flying, however, it’s in their best interest to keep them in their cage to monitor them and for their own safety; the quicker they recover, the faster they can go back to normal activities.
HEAVY METAL POISONING IN PARROTS
Heavy metal poisoning is sadly common in captive birds and of course can be fatal if not treated quickly. However, it is avoidable; all that is required is for owners to be mindful of the toys and cages they buy for their birds, furthermore, to ensure their birds are supervised when outside the cage. The most common heavy metals ingested are lead and zinc. The cages bought must be coated with non-toxic paint; many manufactures will quote on their product description if they use non-toxic materials. Do not buy toys which contain metals which are not 100% stainless steel. Birds should not be allowed to chew on furniture, picture frames, walls, jewellery, pennies, paints, batteries, gun pellets, galvanised wire, ceramics, stained glass, etc, which contain zinc or lead. Furniture will often be coated with toxic varnishing’s.
As mentioned above heavy metal poisoning can be fatal if not caught in the early stages; therefore, owners should be aware of the symptoms of heavy metal poisoning which can manifest very slowly over weeks or months or they can show very quickly. Ill list a few symptoms of heavy metal poisoning below.
If you notice any of these symptoms, please see your vet immediately:
Weakness and lethargy
Difficulty breathing (tail bopping)
Non-hormonal regurgitation
Vomiting
Blood in droppings
Crop stasis
Paralysis
Seizures
Weight loss
Polyuria/ polydipsia
Depression
Anemia
Cyanosis
Diarrhoea
Feather plucking
HOW A BIRD RESPONDS TO STRESS
There are three ways in which a bird will respond to stress and fear: Fight, flight or freezing in one spot.
Many novice bird owners have expressed how delighted they are that their untamed bird has made a dramatic change in its behaviour towards them, literally overnight. The bird has gone from being incredibly fearful of them and trying to fly away or hide, to showing affection and wanting to be held, or their bird has become completely complacent allowing the owner to pet them. Make no mistake there has been no divine intervention that has occurred, this usually means the bird is either too sick to respond to stimuli in their environment, or they have become so fearful that their body can only respond by freezing on the spot. This type of behaviour is extremely dangerous, and many birds have dropped dead due to experiencing this degree of stress.
If a bird’s behaviour changes spontaneously from being fearful of you, to allowing you to do what you like with it, the bird needs medical attention, or it is under severe stress. This bird needs you to immediately return it to its cage to calm down, and if necessary to seek veterinary assistance.
HOW DISEASE SPREADS IN THE AVIAN WORLD
There are many ways in which diseases can spread between birds. It is imperative that all bird owners practice high standards of husbandry, and that all new birds added into a flock are checked by a qualified avian vet and quarantined for 6-8 weeks.
Ways in which disease spreads:
1. Through feed and water
2. Bird to bird contact
3. Malnutrition
4. Carrier birds
5. Not quarantining new birds
6. Mosquitoes, Flies and parasites
7. Wild birds contaminating aviaries with droppings
8. Contaminated litter and soil
9. Visitors or attendants to aviary’s/Exhibitions & shows
HOW TO ENCOURAGE MY SICK BIRD TO EAT?
A bird showing a lack of appetite or refusal to eat is likely experiencing significant illness, beak injury, other injuries and in pain, and should be evaluated by a veterinarian straight away. Prolonged periods without food can quickly lead to severe health complications and progressive weakness in birds. The following strategies can help encourage eating: Firstly, place food all over the cage so that the bird is met with temptation in all directions which will entice him to eat. Pay close attention to your birds dropping they will give an indication if your bird is eating or not.
Offer a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables to stimulate interest. Offer Slightly warm cooked food to enhance its aroma. Add a small amount of natural fruit juice (with no added sugars, sweeteners, additives or preservatives) to foods to increase palatability. Gently hand-feed the bird to promote eating (force-feeding must be strictly avoided). Provide soft foods that are easy to consume, such as cooked sweet potatoes, mashed peas or sweetcorn. Combine regular food with a small quantity of a favourite treat. Present universally favoured treats, including millet, seed sticks, certain human foods such as plain digestive biscuits (Graham crackers), unsalted popcorn, plain corn flakes, Weetabix, cooked rice, cooked pasta, other cooked grains (spelt, couscous), and boiled eggs. Do not worry about counting your birds calories when offering its favourite treats, getting the bird to eat to remain strong is more important than watching its weight at this present time. Always remember that prompt consultation with an avian veterinarian remains essential for appropriate diagnosis and care. Maintain a calm and quiet environment to minimise stress. Consult a veterinarian regarding prescription appetite stimulants or medications. Over-the-counter products should not be administered without veterinary guidance, as many are unapproved and may cause allergic reactions or interfere with prescribed medications. It is important to weigh your birds daily and keep a record of their weight, loss of weight is often a first sign of illness.
HOW TO MONITOR A SICK BIRD
In my line of work, I care for sick birds and other poorly animals and it is imperative to monitor and keep a daily record of their progress. Progress may be assessed by observation and clinical signs.
This is a very good habit for all bird owners to get into when their pet bird is sick. This will not only help the owner follow their progress, but it is incredibly beneficial to vets as it helps them make an accurate diagnosis.
I would recommend you record the following at home daily while caring for a sick bird:
1. Weight {this should be taken first thing in the morning}.
2. Clinical observations. Additionally, record the general demeanour of the bird, for example, non-active, sleepy, depressed, not greeting you normally, non-verbal, etc.
3. Food and water intake.
4. Droppings- quality and quantity.
5. Medications prescribed by your vet- quantity and route. Additionally, record any side effects of the medications if observed.
HOW TO QUARANTINE NEW BIRDS
What is it, and what does it mean in practice?
·WHAT-The dictionary definition of quarantine is “a state, period, or place of isolation in which people or animals that have arrived from elsewhere … are placed.” So, it is placing your new parrot in isolation, away from your other parrot/s.
·IN PRACTICE- This means your new parrot/s needs to be in a separate cage, in a separate room, in a completely different part of the house from your current flock. Before attending to the new birds, you need to wash your hands. Always attend to the current flock first, and then the new birds. Be infection/contagion aware. This is regardless of their having been given a clean bill of health by your vet in the first week you have them. The recommended quarantine period is SIX WEEKS, as this gives time for any illnesses to become apparent. Should your new birds show any signs of illness in this time, another vet visit is required, and the quarantine period will need to continue for another six weeks, once the illness has been treated.
· WHY -This protects your current flock from any illness the new birds are carriers of, but also works in reverse. Your current flock will have built resistance to certain illnesses which the new birds could become ill with, particularly if they are fighting another immune suppressing illness. Whilst it can be very inconvenient to quarantine new flock members, particularly once they hear each other in the house, it can save a great deal of stress and heartache in the longer term, as well as veterinary costs.
HYGIENE AND YOUR BIRDS
It is imperative that as parrot owners we practise personal hygiene around our birds. I have heard many times before people say, "I don't wash my hands before handling my birds and they never get sick". Well, these people have been very lucky, as all it takes is for their birds immune system to be slightly compromised and the levels of bacteria which their bodies would usually be able to fight off now can not and the bird becomes sick. For the health of your birds, it's imperative to wash and disinfect your hands before handling them, especially, if you have been handling other pets in the home too.
Allowing a bird to groom a beard, your hair, pick your teeth or pick under your finger nails are all areas of the body which are teaming with bacteria and can make your birds very sick. When your birds are on you and start picking at your body, give them something else to occupy themselves with such as a toy, a treat or teach them a new word or a new trick. It is one of those situations where we think it will never happen to me, and then you find yourself at the vet with a sick bird and swamped in vet bills. At this current time with the pandemic, you can't walk into a shop without being met with 1000 bottles of hand sanitiser in front of you , grab a bottle and use it each time before handling your birds.
INSECTS THAT CAN HARM YOUR PARROT
Most insects are harmless, but some can cause serious problems if your parrot comes into contact with them. The risk usually comes from stings, toxins, or physical irritation rather than the insect itself. Understanding what actually happens inside the body helps you recognise when something is urgent. Bees and wasps are one of the biggest risks because of their sting. When a parrot grabs or bites one, the sting can occur inside the mouth or throat. This triggers a rapid inflammatory response, meaning the tissue starts to swell. In a bird, even mild swelling in the airway can quickly affect breathing because their respiratory system is so efficient and tightly structured. You may see open-mouth breathing, tail bobbing, distress, or sudden quietness. In more severe cases, especially if there is a sensitivity reaction, swelling can progress quickly and become life-threatening.
Caterpillars with defensive hairs are another hidden danger. These tiny hairs are designed to irritate predators and can embed in the skin, mouth, or eyes. In parrots, this can cause intense irritation, redness, and swelling, especially around the face and beak. If the hairs are inhaled or ingested, they can irritate the airway or digestive lining, leading to discomfort, reduced appetite, or breathing changes. Some species can also trigger a stronger inflammatory or allergic-type response, which increases swelling and pain. Fire ants pose a different type of risk because they bite and sting repeatedly. Unlike a single bee sting, fire ants can latch on and deliver multiple stings in a short time. This causes local pain and swelling, but in birds it can also lead to stress, shock, or secondary complications if multiple areas are affected. Around the feet, eyes, or face, this can become especially serious because of the sensitivity of those areas.
Other risks come from what insects carry or are exposed to. Cockroaches and similar scavenging insects can spread bacteria, fungi, and parasites from contaminated areas onto food bowls, perches, and cage surfaces. If your parrot ingests these organisms, it can lead to digestive upset or infection, particularly in birds that are young, older, or already unwell. Insects that have come into contact with pesticides or household bug sprays are also dangerous. If a parrot eats them, the chemical residue can affect the nervous system, liver, or digestion, even if the insect itself would normally be harmless. If your parrot has contact with any of these insects and shows swelling, changes in breathing, reduced movement, or unusual quietness, it should always be treated as urgent. Birds can decline quickly, and early veterinary care makes a significant difference. Preventing exposure, especially in outdoor time or near open windows, is one of the simplest ways to keep your parrot safe.
LACK OF VOCALISATION
A first sign of illness is a birds change in behaviour. One behavioural change you may notice is a lack of vocalisation. Sick birds often remain quiet, if you notice the bird has been quiet in over 24 hours, please see your vet ASAP. Another bad sign is change of voice, this is a symptom in many illnesses, if this occurs, see your vet.
AUTHORS NOTE: When you bring home a new bird, it is normal for them not to be vocal for a few days; the stress of moving into new surroundings can cause this, until they feel more secure and settled. Please remember, all new birds need a vet check within the first week you bring them home.
MEDICATING YOUR BIRDS VIA FOOD OR WATER.
Medications given in drinking water are usually prescribed in medicating an entire flock of birds, such as in an aviary. Typically, avian vets prefer to prescribe medication to administer orally. Food or water medication is generally the LEAST satisfactory way to treat sick birds because there is enormous variation in the quantity of food and water consumed. This makes it impossible to determine accurately the amount of medication a bird consumes. Therefore, overdose or under-dosage may commonly occur! Additionally, what many people don’t know is that certain medications (for example, tetracyclines) react to metal, therefore, medications should only be given in plastic, glass, or ceramic containers. Always ask your vet what container would be safe to use. Furthermore, many medications should never be mixed, so again, ask your vet for advice. It is understandable that many people do not know how to give oral medication as it does require the "know-how" of administering the medication correctly into the oesophagus and not via the trachea, and handling the bird safely. It’s not so easy if you are new to bird keeping, however, most avian vets will have no problem in demonstrating how to safely treat your birds via dropper or syringe if you ask them.
As a bonus tip, always ask your vet to give your birds their first dose of medication before you leave the clinic, this way your bird starts its treatment immediately, you can confirm the dosage given via syringe and you are able to ask any questions about administering the medication.
Warning: If at any point you are not confident or comfortable giving oral medication then do not do it, a bird can asphyxiate quickly if fluids go down into trachea. Always ensure you know what you are doing, or it’s best ask your vet for alternative options or ask a qualified professional to administer the medication.
METABOLIC BONE DISEASE IN PARROTS
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is a serious condition in parrots that weakens the bones and can affect overall health. Many people think it is caused only by a lack of calcium, but it is more complicated than that! Vitamin D3 and phosphorus balance are just as important. The Role of Calcium: Calcium is needed for strong bones, healthy muscles, and even normal nerve function. Without enough calcium, bones can become brittle, and parrots may develop fractures, weakness, or seizures. But calcium alone is not enough. Vitamin D3 and UVB Light: Parrots need vitamin D3 to absorb calcium properly. In the wild, they get this from natural sunlight. Indoor parrots often miss out unless they have access to safe UVB lighting or dietary sources recommended by an avian vet. Without D3, even a calcium-rich diet won’t be absorbed properly. The Phosphorus Puzzle: Too much phosphorus can block calcium from being used by the body. Many seed-heavy diets contain high levels of phosphorus, which throws off the balance. The ideal diet balances calcium and phosphorus while including vitamin D3 for proper absorption. Signs of Metabolic Bone Disease: Weakness or trouble perching, Tremors or twitching, Beak or bone deformities in young birds, Fractures or soft bones. Prevention: Offer a balanced diet with pellets, vegetables, and safe calcium sources. Provide safe UVB light or limited natural sunlight. Avoid seed-only diets high in phosphorus. Regular vet check-ups for early detection. Conclusion: MBD prevention is all about balance: calcium, vitamin D3, and phosphorus working together. With the right diet and light, parrots can stay strong and healthy throughout their lives.
MOULD SPORES IN A PARROTS ENVIRONMENT
Parrots have extremely sensitive respiratory systems. Even small amounts of mould or fungal spores in their environment can cause serious health problems. Therefore, prevention is much easier and safer than treatment. Why Parrots Are Vulnerable: Unlike mammals, parrots have air sacs as part of their respiratory system. These sacs make breathing efficient, but they also mean that inhaled particles, like fungal spores, spread quickly throughout the body. This is why parrots are highly prone to respiratory infections from mould exposure. Common Sources of Mould and Fungal Spores: Damp or spoiled food, especially seed mixes and nuts. Mold growing on wooden perches, toys, or cage bars. Poorly ventilated or humid rooms. Contaminated nesting material or litter. Health Risks: Inhaled spores can lead to infections such as aspergillosis, a serious fungal disease that affects the lungs and air sacs. Symptoms may include wheezing, nasal discharge, tail-bobbing when breathing, lethargy, and loss of appetite. Veterinary treatment is essential if these signs appear. Prevention and Solutions: Store all food in airtight containers and discard anything damp or mouldy. Clean cages, perches, and toys regularly, making sure they dry completely. Ensure good ventilation and avoid keeping parrots in areas with water damage or dampness. Replace wooden or rope toys that become wet, frayed, or difficult to clean. In conclusion: Mould and fungal spores are hidden dangers in a parrot’s home. With careful cleaning, good food storage, and proper air quality, you can greatly reduce your bird’s risk of illness and keep them breathing easily.
NUTRITIONAL DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS IN PARROTS
Nutritional deficiency symptoms in parrots are numerous, and it is imperative for bird owners to know what to look out for so that if their birds do show any of these clinical signs, they are able to be seen by an avian vet to rule out any other health conditions, or rectify their birds diet as soon as possible. Many avian vets have clarified that up to 90% of avian illnesses are due to malnutrition in pet birds.
Listed below are only some signs of nutritional deficiencies. Note: Some of these signs can be symptoms of other avian illnesses too, therefore, the bird would need to be seen by an avian vet to rule this out.
Malformed feathers.
Discoloured feathers (black discoloration on green or yellow feathers).
Dull, thin feathers.
Loss of feathers.
Brittle or frayed feathers.
Stress bars on feathers.
Thin, brittle casings of pin feathers.
Waved edges of the primary feathers.
Delayed moult or incomplete moult.
Feather plucking or mutilation.
Excessive growth of beak and nails.
Flaky skin.
Excess keratin accumulation on the break.
Thickened flaky cere.
Scaly legs and feet.
Thickened raised scales on legs and feet.
Chronic infections.
Obesity.
Emaciated.
Muscular weakness.
Bumble- foot
Preen gland dysfunction.
Lack of skin elasticity.
Abnormal growth.
Deformed limbs.
Brittle bones.
Inability to breed.
Seizures or ataxia.
OINTMENTS SHOULD NOT BE USED ON BIRDS
Don't ever use: ointments, Vaseline (petroleum jelly), salves, or any oily creams on your bird without the recommendation of your vet. Using these products will cause the birds feathers to become matted, and prevent the parrot from insulating itself, resulting in hypothermia.
PARROT DEHYDRATION SIGNS AND SOLUTIONS
Parrots need water just as much as they need food, but many pet parrots live in environments that can leave them mildly dehydrated. Even low-level dehydration can affect digestion, feather quality, and overall health. Signs of Dehydration: Droppings that appear drier than normal. Dull or flaky skin around the legs or face. Fatigue, reduced activity, or irritability. Loss of feather shine or increased preening. Sunken or partially closed eyes. Thick or sticky saliva in the mouth. Skin that feels less elastic (slow to return when gently lifted). Weight loss or reduced appetite. Panting or open mouth breathing in severe cases. Diet and Water Intake:Seed-based diets are naturally low in water. Birds that eat mostly dry foods without enough fresh fruits and vegetables are at higher risk of dehydration. Offering foods with natural moisture — like leafy greens, apple slices, cucumber, or melon — can help boost fluid intake safely. Environmental Factors: Many parrots live indoors where central heating or air conditioning lowers humidity. Dry air makes it harder for parrots to stay hydrated. Wild parrots often live in more humid climates, so providing similar conditions is important for companion birds. Solutions and Prevention: Provide clean, fresh water always and change it daily. Offer a variety of fresh vegetables and fruits for natural hydration. Mist or lightly spray parrots with clean water to encourage bathing. Use a humidifier in especially dry homes to maintain healthier air quality. Chronic low-grade dehydration can be easy to miss, but it has a big impact on parrot health. By improving diet, offering fresh water, and maintaining proper humidity, owners can prevent dehydration and help their parrots thrive.
PARROT EMERGENCIES OWNERS MISS
Parrots are very good at hiding illness and injury, which means that what looks like a small problem can quickly become an emergency. In the wild, showing weakness attracts predators, so parrots naturally try to appear normal for as long as possible. Because of this instinct, many owners underestimate how serious a situation may be until the bird suddenly declines. One of the most common emergencies that owners overlook is rapid weight loss or reduced eating. A parrot that begins eating less, dropping food, or losing weight may already be unwell. Because parrots have a fast metabolism, they cannot safely go long periods without food. Even a short time of poor intake can lead to weakness and dehydration. Another red flag is changes in droppings. Many owners notice watery droppings or colour changes but assume it is simply something the bird ate. In reality, persistent changes in droppings can indicate digestive illness, infection, or organ problems. When droppings change consistently for more than a short period, it is something that should always be taken seriously. Breathing changes are also frequently missed in parrots. Owners may notice slight tail bobbing, open-mouth breathing, or unusual sounds but assume the bird is simply tired or stressed. In parrots, breathing should normally be quiet and effortless. Any visible effort to breathe can indicate respiratory distress and requires urgent veterinary attention. Another emergency that is sometimes underestimated is trauma or falls.
A parrot that suddenly falls from a perch, appears weak, or struggles with balance may be experiencing neurological problems, injury, or severe illness. These signs are never normal and should always be treated as urgent. Parrots can deteriorate quickly once symptoms become visible, which is why small warning signs should never be ignored. When an owner notices behaviour changes, appetite loss, abnormal droppings, breathing difficulty, or balance problems, it is always safest to contact an avian veterinarian promptly. Early treatment often makes a significant difference in recovery. Understanding these subtle warning signs helps owners recognise when a situation may be more serious than it first appears. Acting quickly can prevent a small problem from turning into a life-threatening emergency.
PARROT FEATHER STRESS BARS
Feather stress bars are thin horizontal lines or weakened areas across a feather’s shaft. Avian veterinarians explain that these bars are physical signs of interruption in feather growth, often pointing to underlying health or environmental issues. They are not cosmetic but valuable clues about a bird’s wellbeing. What Causes Stress Bars? Nutritional Deficiencies: Low levels of protein, amino acids, or vitamins—especially vitamin A—can affect feather development. Illness: Viral, bacterial, or fungal infections may stress the body and disrupt feather growth. Environmental Stress: Sudden changes in temperature, poor housing, or loud disturbances can interfere with feather quality. Psychological Stress: Fear, overcrowding, or lack of enrichment can add to the problem. Why They Matter: Stress bars indicate that something went wrong during the period when the feather was forming. This makes them an important warning sign for bird owners to look closer at diet, environment, or health.What To Do: Provide a balanced diet with adequate protein, vitamins, and minerals. Ensure consistent access to safe, enriched environments. Schedule a veterinary exam if stress bars are frequent or severe, as they may point to hidden illness. Note: Feather stress bars act like a timeline of your parrot’s health. Paying attention to them can help catch problems early and keep parrots in top condition.
PARROTS SHOULD NOT HAVE A SMEL
A healthy parrot should never have a bad smell. Unlike mammals, birds have very clean skin and feathers, and a well-cared-for parrot smells neutral or slightly sweet, especially after bathing. If your bird or its cage develops an unpleasant odour, it’s a sign that something is wrong — not something to ignore. Avian veterinarians agree that foul smells are one of the first warnings of poor hygiene, diet issues, or illness. Dirty cages are a common cause. Old food, droppings, and wet cage liners quickly grow bacteria and mould, which cling to feathers and create a musty scent. Regular cleaning, fresh cage papers, and daily washing of dishes help prevent this. Poor air circulation or exposure to kitchen fumes, aerosols, or cigarette smoke can also leave lingering smells on feathers and irritate delicate avian lungs. However, a strong or unusual odour coming directly from your bird usually points to a medical problem. Infections of the crop, skin, or respiratory system can all cause sour or rotten smells. Sometimes the droppings themselves may smell stronger if there’s a digestive or liver disorder. Because parrots hide signs of sickness well, any noticeable smell from the bird itself should be treated as a reason to contact an avian vet immediately. Parrots are naturally clean animals that preen daily to keep their feathers in top condition. If your bird starts to smell, don’t mask it with sprays or scented products — find and fix the cause. With good hygiene, proper diet, and regular bathing, a healthy parrot will always be beautifully scent-free.
PARROTS LEFT IN DRAFTS GET SICK
A draft is moving air that can cause parts of the room or cage to be much cooler than other parts; as parrots can’t withstand sudden drops of temperature, it can cause them to become very sick!
The best way to check if your parrots cage is in a draft is by holding a lit match in the area, if the flame flickers then you know that there is a draft. It’s then advisable to relocate the cage to a draft free area.
Please NEVER put your parrot near an open door or open window, or anywhere there can be a draft!
POLYURIA SYMPTOMS AND CAUSES IN PARROTS
Excess amount of urine in a birds dropping is called polyuria. Polyuria can be caused by; stress, the bird has taken a bath and drunk too much water while bathing, or it can be caused by a bird eating an excess of fruit and veggies. Chronic polyuria on the other hand, can be a symptom of diabetes, kidney disease, or an infection, (bacterial, viral, fungal or parasitic)
If your bird has had polyuria for more than 24-48 hours this is considered chronic, and you should make an appointment with your vet straight away. It is very important to monitor your bird’s droppings daily for first signs of illness.
POOPOLOGY
It is extremely important to check your parrot’s droppings daily for first signs of illness! Parrots droppings can tell a lot about your bird’s health; any change in colour, or consistency should be brought to your vet’s attention immediately.
DROPPINGS COLOUR INDICATOR
Urates should always be white –
- yellow or green urates may indicate liver disease.
- Bright lime green or yellow urates may indicate Chlamydiosis (Psittacosis)
- Brown urates may indicate lead poisoning.
- Red urates may indicate Internal bleeding (low in the digestive track) or Kidney Disease.
Urine should always be clear –
- Yellow urine may indicate a bacterial infection or yeast infection, kidney disease or liver disease.
- Red urine may indicate Internal bleeding (low in the digestive track) or Lead Poisoning.
Faecal matter can be green for seed eating birds or brown for birds eating pellets -
- Black or fresh red blood may indicate bleeding from the digestive tract, intestinal infections, tumours, swallowing of a foreign object, egg binding or parasites.
- Black or Tar-like droppings may indicate internal bleeding (high in the digestive track)
- Dark droppings can be mossy green (spread on paper and if dark mossy green may indicate excessive amounts of bile produced by the liver).
- Pea Green droppings may indicate liver Damage.
- Reddish brown droppings may indicate heavy metal poisoning.
- White or Clay colour dropping may indicate pancreas or digestive problems.
Bubbles in parrot droppings, may indicate gas, or an infection.
Undigested seeds in droppings, may indicate symptoms of PDD (Proventricular Dilatation Disease) parasites, poor digestion, intestinal infection, or pancreatic disease.
A decrease in droppings, may indicate that the bird is not eating, or they may have swallowed a foreign object.
An increase in droppings, or bulkiness of droppings, may indicate poor digestion, or egg laying.
Decreased urine, may indicate that the bird is dehydrated.
REASONS FOR CONSTIPATION IN PET BIRD
Constipation in pet birds is very rare, therefore, when an owner notices that their bird cannot poop there is a cause for concern. There are multiple reasons why a bird may not be able to pass droppings such as: lack of exercise, dehydration, poop caked around the vent (birds bottom), reproductive problems, abdominal fluid, tumours inside or near the vent, dietary deficiency, low calcium levels which can be associated with reproductive problems causing poor muscle contractions, cloaca prolapse, imputation and other blockages, a tear or injury to the vent, polyps, and many other serious internal issues.
HOME TREATMENT:
Check the birds vent for any caking of droppings. If droppings are stuck to the birds vent clean the vent with a warm, damp towel and remove any debris. If the bird is eating and there are no other symptoms you can offer the bird watery foods such as grapes, melon and greens to help get the bowel working.
NEVER offer human constipation medications as these can be toxic to birds and cause irreparable GI damage if there is a blockage. Do not force feed your birds any kind of oil such as olive oil, this is very risky advice given by other sources. Oil can be aspirated very easily into the lungs. Secondly, if there is an impaction the oil can stimulate a bowel movement and if the droppings cannot pass due to a blockage the bird’s intestines could rupture or prolapse. If your bird is not passing droppings, please see a vet ASAP!
REASONS WHY A BIRD MAY VOMIT
There is a difference between vomiting and regurgitation, often owners confuse the two. Learn more about their differences in the health section on this website, Read “Vomiting or regurgitation”
As an example a bird may vomit due to: Bacterial infections, viruses, poisoning … etc.
There are many more reasons why a bird may vomit, and these are all listed in my book “How the flock do I care for a parrot”? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B089N6JWDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Wzk2EbYXZQ3RV
NOTE: Vomiting is a medical emergency, so ensure you see a vet immediately.
REASONS WHY YOUR PARROT IS FLUFFED
Parrots can fluff up their feathers for a few reasons: when they are cold, when they are relaxing /sleeping or when they are sick and trying to keep warm. If your bird is constantly fluffed up, check your room temperature to see if it is not too cold for your bird. If it is not cold, then it means your bird is sick and needs to see a vet. This is one of the first signs of illness that owners notice.
RESPIRATORY INFECTIONS IN PARROTS
Birds do not get colds like us humans, they get respiratory infections, which get worse if not treated straight away.
Here are some symptoms of respiratory infections:
- Noises whilst breathing.
- Cough like sounds.
- Wheezing.
- Open beak breathing.
- Repetitive sneezing.
- Choking fits and even holding onto bars in stationary position to try to open up airway.
Visible symptoms can include:
- Changes to the Cere.
- Raised rings around the nostrils, or nares.
- Colour changes, texture changes, swelling could be signs of an infection starting. Nares should have a similar coloured flap inside, but not be plugged, running, full of puss, or yellowy gunk.
NOTE: Ignoring these symptoms could result in the infection spreading down into the air sacs, and the nares become permanently enlarged. The Cere can be completely destroyed, leaving the bird with permanent breathing problems and in pain.
ROOM TEMPERATURE FOR A SICK BIRD
A sick bird should be kept in a room temperature that's 80 to 90°F (27 to 32°C).The room should be kept quiet with low lighting until it is taken to your avian veterinarian.
SEIZURES IN BIRDS
In this article I will be explaining what a seizure is and how you can recognise the symptoms, as well as some of the causes of seizures in birds and what an owner can do at home as a first aid procedure. Please note, a seizure is classed as a medical emergency and therefore the bird should receive medical veterinary assistance as soon as possible!
WHAT IS A SEIZURE?
A seizure is the clinical manifestation of a sudden surge of excessive electrical activity in the brain. Every stimulation the bird receives every millisecond of the day—visual, olfactory, touch, hearing, taste and emotion-is passed up the nerves to the brain to be sorted and modulated to an acceptable level the brain can handle. The 'dampening down' effect, the reduction and refinement of the number of electrical impulses, is often known as the 'fit threshold'. It is not something we can see or measure, but we know it is there in all animals. Anything that lowers that threshold can allow an uncontrolled surge of electricity to hit the brain, often triggering a seizure. There are several characteristic stages of a seizure incident: the prodromal stage, the seizure itself and the postictal stage. (Prof, Bob Doneley).
WHAT A SEIZURE MAY LOOK LIKE IN BIRDS.
There are a few stages to a seizure as I mentioned above, however, in this article I will keep it simple and only highlight key clinical signs. You may notice your bird’s behaviour change, they may be showing signs of restlessness, anxiety, hiding, or seeking out its owner, or other odd behaviours before the seizure starts. Your bird may show clinical signs of wing twitching, aggression or fear, the bird’s muscles may contract, and they may fall to one side with its limbs extended, the bird may poop itself at this time and vocalise. The bird’s muscles may be contracting so you may see paddling, limb twitching or chewing. Seizures can last for a few seconds to several minutes and in some cases the bird may have two or more seizures without full recovery of consciousness between seizures.
SEIZURE RECOVERY STAGE.
As the seizure subsides and recovery begins the bird may have temporary neurological abnormalities such as disorientation, blindness, loss of balance which can last from a few minutes to several hours. Expect the bird to be exhausted and not display normal behaviour for some time.
CAUSES OF SEIZURES.
A bird may only have one seizure in its lifetime, or they may have several depending on the cause. It is worth noting that it is rare that a seizure will kill a bird, however, many have died due to accidental injury during these episodes such as drowning in water bowls, being attacked by other birds or other pets, falls, and collisions into walls and windows, etc. The source of the seizure can be caused by a problem within the brain itself, or outside the brain.
WITHIN THE BRAIN: Infections, with bacteria, fungal, viruses or parasites. Decreased blood supply to the brain caused by heart attack, stroke, or atherosclerosis, this results in a sharp drop of oxygen to the brain which can trigger a seizure. Trauma to the brain, such as flying into a window or being struck by a motorcar causing bleeding within the brain. Brain cancer. Toxins: various toxins can cause seizures such as lead, insecticides, human foods such as alcohol, caffeine, chocolate, and fungal toxins (mycotoxins). Embolic disease and heat stress, etc.
OUTSIDE THE BRAIN: Metabolic disorders, such as low blood glucose seen in starving birds, or low blood calcium levels, often occurring in African Grey parrot’s species. Liver disease, end-stage kidney disease, severe respiratory disease, heart disease, and some drugs such as insulin for treating diabetes can cause a drop in blood sugar and seizures when overdosed.
FIRST AID AT HOME TREATMENT.
The bird’s safety is your first priority. You cannot stop a seizure so do not try and restrain the bird in any way, however, you can gently move your bird to a safe environment. Remove anything in the area that will cause your bird harm such as water bowls, sharp objects, toys, perches, and other pets. Lay down padding or a soft towel at the bottom of the cage. The seizure may only last a few minutes; however, your bird will be confused and can injury itself at this stage. Do not handle your bird immediately after a seizure, unless your bird needs immediate care such as it is bleeding and that needs to be stopped asap. The bird will be in a state of shock and confusion, therefore, even a docile tamed bird may bite hard due to fear. Do not try and force feed your bird water or food. Once the bird has quietened down you can place the bird in a carrier lined with a soft towel and seek veterinary help straight away.
SIGNS OF A HEALTHY BIRD
- The bird has bright alert eyes.
Active.
Has no trouble perching.
Moves with coordination.
Bears weight evenly. All four toes are present on each foot and in the proper position.
Breathes easily, with no sign of labouring or tail-bobbing.
The eyes, ears and nostrils are free of discharge.
Has a healthy plumage; there is no evidence of damage from feather-picking or other trauma. There is no bald patches. - Consistently produces droppings that are normal in appearance. No pasting of the vent.
- The beak is in good condition without signs of damage or discolouration.
- The skin is a healthy colour and free from dryness and irritation.
SMOKE INHALATION
It is extremely harmful to smoke around birds; it can cause pneumonia , conjunctivitis , secondary infections, not to mention all the other toxic chemicals being ingested by your bird, and it can cause death.
Vaping on the other hand, people may ASSUME its ok because its vapour not smoke ... thinks again! Vaping actually has a far more concentrated mixture of nicotine than cigarettes! Vaping is just as dangerous as smoking is around birds, and can actually cause death in birds.
AUTHORS NOTE: One would not smoke around a toddler for known reasons; a birds respiratory system is actually more sensitive than a child’s, so one can do the math as to why it’s so extremely dangerous for these creatures!
STAR GAZING IN PARROTS
If your bird starts walking around and around in circles OR starts star gazing (which if where they tilt head backwards and stare upwards) these are medical emergencies. Walking in circles can be caused by a number of nasty illnesses and neurological issues. One common reason is toxicity or a severe reaction to a toxin!
NOTE: If you notice your birds doing this see your vet IMMEDIATELY!
SYMPTOMS OF EGG BINDING
- Bird sitting on the bottom of the cage floor
- Rocking back and forth
- Sitting on her tail feathers with her legs spread apart
- Tail wagging or bobbing
- Abdominal distention
- Straining as if trying to lay an egg
- Laboured breathing
- Lack of droppings
- Ruffled feathers
- Bluish white limbs
- The hen may make crying sounds
An X-ray or ultrasound may be needed for a diagnosis of egg binding because the egg is not externally visible.
SYMPTOMS OF INFECTION IN PARROTS
- Redness
- Swelling
- Discharge
- Lethargy
- Lack of appetite
Please seek vet attention ASAP is you think your parrot is showing any signs of infection. If left too long, your parrot can develop 'systematic infection' meaning; an infection that affects the whole body if it goes into the bloodstream.
THE BENEFITS OF PROBIOTICS FOR PET BIRDS
Many people are advised by their vets to give their pets a probiotic whilst the birds are on antibiotics, however, many owners do not understand their purpose. In this article we will look at the benefits of probiotics and when the birds need them the most.
In layman terms, probiotics work by making life for harmful bacteria in the gut as difficult as possible. This means making the gut as hospitable as possible for good and helpful bacteria and as inhospitable as possible for harmful bacteria which often causes disease.
In the normal gut, most bacteria have a beneficial effect, these bacteria spend their time producing lactic acid which their main function is to keep the system clear of invading species of bacteria often referred to as pathogenic or harmful bacteria. Helpful bacteria aid the digestion process and help nutritional absorption. Beneficial bacteria are species specific, therefore, giving a probiotic meant for humans, dogs or cats will not work in birds. Avian probiotics cultivate colonies of healthy bacteria along the digestive tract, so when bad bacteria entre the body it can’t adhere to cell walls and thus get washed out when the bird poops.
Avian probiotics help support the birds mood, hormones, immune system and aids in times of stress. When a bird is stressed, which can be for several reasons such as, moving into a new environment, moulting, breeding, illness, a new pet or baby in the home, etc, when stress happens there is a decline in the number of beneficial bacteria in the gut and a rise in pathogenetic bacteria. This is a perfect time a give a probiotic because it reverses that process and at the same time creating a perfect environment in which food can go towards growth for maximum effect.
Probiotics as mentioned above should be species specific. There are many avian probiotics on the market and an avian vet can help advice which product they recommend is the best for your bird. Many probiotics are also supported by a “prebiotic” which helps the natural bacteria in the birds gut sustain the right conditions to allow the friendly bacteria to re-establish and thrive. Many also have added vitamins which help replace those lost during periods of stress and help support the immune system.
THE OPERCULUM INSIDE A PARROT'S NARES
Inside the nares of most parrots is the operculum, this is small and brownish in colour. Many inexperienced owners mistake this as an obstruction, dirt, or foreign body, such as a seed and try to get it out. Doing so can cause serious injury, and can cause heavy bleeding. If you see any obstruction in there, or notice nasal discharge, see your vet ASAP. Please don’t attempt to remove anything yourself, or you could end up seriously hurting your bird!
THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM OF A PARROT EXPLAINED
The breathing process of birds is very different to that of mammals. Their lungs are relatively half the size of mammals, and whilst their respiratory systems are slower than mammals, their breathing is much more efficient. We will try to explain as clearly as possible.
Birds’ lungs do not expand and contract during breathing, and they do not have a diaphragm. Instead, the chest muscles force the sternum out and a vacuum effect occurs in the air sacs, pulling air into the lungs. More muscles are then used to put greater pressure on the air sacs to force the air out of the lungs. However, this happens in 2 stages, or 2 breaths in and out.
With only two lungs this would be impossible – to be breathing air out whilst breathing in – but the exhaled breath is pulled into a set of air sacs, so the new breath can be pulled in via different air sacs.
It means the bird can manage altitudes, with higher oxygen levels and constantly inflated lungs. By doing this, the lungs are never deflated, and each breath remains longer in the body.
Depending on the species, the bird can have 7 or 9 air sacs. When fully inflated, these air sacs expand into cavities in the bones. If a bird is flighted, this happens to a much greater degree. The air sacs extend into the humorous, the skull, the femur and the vertebrae. When the bird takes flight, more of the air sacs are inflated into the bone cavities, helped by the wing muscles being engaged. The greater the inflation of the air sacs, the lighter the bird becomes to remain airborne. As the air passes over the blood capillaries on the walls of the lungs, carbon dioxide is removed, and oxygen replaces it. The area of blood capillaries doing this job in avian lungs is much greater than in mammals, making avian breathing much more efficient with higher concentrations of oxygen absorbed with each breath.
Singing is accomplished by forcing air through the vocal organs or Syrinx. The bird can do this whilst breathing in and breathing out and therefore, whilst in flight
JUST AN INTERESTING READ: In the home environment, anything toxic remains in the bird’s respiratory system much longer and in much higher concentrations than it would for mammals. Therefore, toxins that do not affect cats, dogs and humans can be fatal to birds.
The sternum MUST be able to move when a bird is held or restrained and its body not be constricted (pressurising air sacs), or it will be oxygen deprived and could suffocate.
Because the air sacs are within the bones, respiratory infections must be quickly acted upon as they can enter the bones.
UNDERSTANDING CROP PROBLEMS IN PET COCKATIELS
Crop problems are among the most common and serious issues seen in cockatiels. The crop is a thin-walled pouch in the neck where food softens before passing into the stomach. When healthy, it empties smoothly within a few hours after feeding. If it becomes slow, swollen, sour-smelling, or fails to empty, it’s a sign that something is wrong. Avian veterinarian Dr Ross Perry explained that early recognition and prompt treatment often make the difference between recovery and rapid decline. A slow or distended crop, known as crop stasis, can develop due to chilling, infection, dehydration, or poor-quality hand-feeding formula. Food may begin to ferment, producing gas and a sour odour. Yeast such as Candida and harmful bacteria can multiply quickly in these warm, stagnant conditions, inflaming the crop lining and making the bird reluctant to eat. In severe cases, toxins from spoiled food can enter the bloodstream and cause weakness or sudden death if not treated promptly. Hand-reared chicks are especially vulnerable. Overly thick or cold formula, feeding too often, or using dirty utensils can easily lead to crop problems. Feeders should always use clean equipment, keep formula at the correct temperature, and ensure the crop empties fully between meals. Adult cockatiels may also develop crop infections from contaminated water, spoiled food, or illness that slows digestion. Treatment must always begin with an avian veterinarian. The vet may flush the crop, prescribe antifungal or antibiotic medication, and correct dehydration or temperature imbalance. Home remedies such as yoghurt or apple cider vinegar are not safe or effective. The best prevention is strict hygiene, correct feeding technique, and prompt veterinary care whenever a cockatiel’s crop appears swollen, sour-smelling, or slow to empty. Early attention can save a life, and a healthy crop is the foundation of a healthy cockatiel.
VITAMINS ADDED TO A BIRD'S WATER
Please don’t add vitamins to your parrot’s water, unless instructed to by your avian vet. The over-the- counter vitamins you can buy to add to water, lose their potency fast, and increase the growth of bacteria in the water. This can make your bird sick. Parrots will often not drink their water if they can taste anything foreign in it, often leaving the parrot very dehydrated.
VOMITING OR REGURGITATION
Many people confuse vomiting and regurgitation, so here is the difference between the two:
VOMITING:
When a bird vomits it will shake and flick its head quiet violently. DIGESTED food from its stomach will be flicked everywhere, often including on your birds own head and the contents will be mattered around its mouth.
REGURGITATION:
When a bird regurgitates it will use a pumping movement in its neck and bring up UN-DIGESTED food from its crop. The food will then be brought up in one neat pile on either a favourite toy, person, or fed to chicks.
WEIGHT MONITORING IN PARROTS
Regular weight monitoring is one of the most powerful health tools a parrot owner can use. Birds often hide illness until they are already very unwell, but their weight does not hide anything. Even small internal problems affect appetite, digestion and energy use long before visible symptoms appear. A parrot may look normal, eat “about the same,” and behave almost normally while quietly losing weight. This makes routine weighing one of the earliest and most reliable ways to detect sickness. Healthy birds maintain a remarkably stable weight when they are well. A sudden drop, even just a few grams, can signal infection, organ stress, malnutrition, crop problems, parasite load or pain. Slow, steady loss over several days is just as important. Weight gain matters too: increases can indicate fatty liver disease, dietary imbalance or hormonal changes. Because parrots are small animals, these shifts are never insignificant. A five-gram change in a cockatiel is the equivalent of a noticeable fluctuation in a human.
Using a digital gram scale gives you a clear picture of your bird’s true health. Weighing once or twice a week is enough for most adult parrots, while chicks, seniors or birds recovering from illness benefit from daily checks. Weigh at the same time of day, before meals, and record everything. A written log helps you see patterns you may not notice day-to-day, and it gives your avian vet vital information when something is wrong. Weight monitoring also strengthens prevention. Sudden dietary changes, new foods, stressful events, temperature shifts or inadequate nutrition often show up in weight long before they appear in behaviour or feathers. By tracking these patterns, you can adjust the diet, correct husbandry issues or seek veterinary help early, preventing minor problems from becoming emergencies.
In many cases, early weight loss is the very first sign that a bird needs help. By making weight checks part of your regular routine, you protect your parrot with one of the simplest and most accurate health assessments available. A few seconds on the scale can reveal what the eyes cannot, and can make all the difference in keeping your bird safe, stable and thriving.
WHAT DO ALL THESE VETERINARIAN TESTS MEAN?
So, your parrot hasn’t been very well and you take him/her to the vet. They do a physical examination but still unsure what’s going on so decide to run some tests. The vet says they want to run a biochemistry panel or do a CBC or gram stain test, etc, you agree to this but you aren’t entirely sure what this all means or what exactly they looking for, it can all sound very scary and confusing.
Therefore, I’ll do a very quick walkthrough of what each test means and some things they maybe looking for ….
CBC (complete blood count)- this is a measurement of the circulating red and white blood cells. So they checking for things such as anaemia, infections , certain blood cancers, etc.
Biochemistry (health profile)- in this test they taking bloods to test the function of the internal organs such as the liver, kidneys as well as looking at the glucose levels, calcium and protein, etc.
Fecal wet mount- this is a basic test where they take a sample of the birds poop and look at it under a microscope, they will be looking for things such as avian gastric yeast and parasites.
Cloacal cultures- the vet will usually stick a cotton bud (Q-tip) up the parrots vent and take a swab. This test will be sent to a laboratory where they will look for abnormal bacterial growths such as E.Coli , etc.
Choanal culture- again a swab will be taken, this time from your birds choanal slit that runs down the roof of their mouth, this slit communicates with the upper airways and sinuses. Your vet will be checking for growths of abnormal bacteria, etc.
Fecal gram stain - The fecal Gram stain is a special stain on feces that detects and classifies bacteria. This stain can also detect certain yeasts and intestinal parasites.
X-ray (radiograph)- this is used to looked at the skeletal structure for broken bones, they are useful to evaluate internal organs proventriculus (stomach), liver, kidneys, lungs, heart. Pieces of metal and other foreign objects, etc.
WHEN YOU HAVE A BAD EXPERIENCE WITH YOUR VET
Many individuals have encountered negative experiences with veterinarians and may struggle to trust them. However, does this mean you should avoid seeking their assistance? I completely understand why some pet owners hesitate to visit the vet, and I'd like to share some of my own personal and professional encounters.
One case involved a bird admitted to the clinic suffering from canker (if you're unfamiliar with it, please look it up). This unfortunate bird had severe canker lesions throughout its throat and required rehabilitation. The risk with canker is that if a lesion is dislodged, the bird could bleed to death, and there is often little that can be done to stop the bleeding, therefore, would require euthanasia. This bird was unable to eat on its own and required tube feeding to survive. When it was entrusted to me, I examined its throat and noticed a small gap between two lesions. I decided to use the thinnest tube available, one designed for neonatal birds, and with many prayers, I carefully threaded the tube down and administered formula. It took me about 15 minutes to get a substantial amount of formula through that tiny tube. Gradually, the bird began to regain strength over the following days. When the vet returned from her holiday, she claimed that with her “expertise,” she could easily use a larger tube, stating she was too busy for the tedious task of administering small amounts of formula. Unfortunately, she dislodged a lesion, and the bird had to be euthanised. I must admit, I cried over that bird for days, especially since it had been improving and the lesions were shrinking. He was such a placid bird, and made no fuss with me taking time to administer small amounts of food at a time. It was truly heartbreaking, especially, when the vets comment was , “well these things happen”…
In another story, I was given a clutch of chicks to hand-rear from the vet. Upon receiving them, I noticed one was very ill, possibly suffering from pneumonia. While I had the necessary food and equipment, I received no medication or fluids. I informed the clinic about the sick chick and was told it had pneumonia, was beyond saving, and should be allowed to die naturally or I should euthanise if it is suffering. I disagreed, believing this chick was a fighter and needed medication and fluids. They dismissed my concerns as a waste of time and resources. I then contacted my own avian vet, who provided me with the supplies I needed. I sat with the chick for 48hrs, sleeping in my home clinic while administering fluids, medication, and supportive care every few hours. The chick survived, and after a few weeks under my care, it was healthy enough to be released, albeit a bit weaker than its siblings. There are countless similar professional stories that could shock you. I’m not trying to pat myself on the back; I just believe some cases require, patience, love and intensive care. Animals can sense when someone genuinely wants them to thrive, and this makes a significant difference compared to being treated as just another case in a long line.
On a personal note, I once had a vet who actually ducked under the table during a wellness check when my bird flew around the room. Believe it or not, he hid under the table, terrified of the bird. My husband and I promptly collected our bird and left!
I understand that not all vets excel in their field, and some may not invest the necessary effort. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that a vet's capabilities can often be limited when it comes to saving a bird's life. Many birds brought into veterinary offices are critically ill. Owners may not realise that by the time they see signs of illness, their bird has already been suffering for weeks and can no longer disguise its weakness. Thus, vets are often racing against time to save these animals. For instance, what may seem like a simple cold could actually be severe pneumonia.
Many people bring very sick birds to the vet, and when the bird doesn’t recover, the vet is often blamed, which isn't always fair. Given that time is crucial in these situations, prospective bird owners must identify a good veterinarian beforehand. If there are no vets nearby or if you're unwilling to travel to one, it may not be fair to own a bird, as there are limits to what can be treated at home.
There are many dedicated vets who genuinely strive to save animals, but in many cases, owners fail to educate themselves on the early signs of illness and do not seek timely care for their pets. Don’t deny your pets necessary veterinary care due to a past negative experience; it may be kinder to have the bird euthanised than to let it suffer without treatment.
WHY COCKATIELS EAT THEIR OWN POOP
Cockatiels are one of the few species of parrots that will eat their own poop; one of the main reasons is because they are lacking in B vitamins, choline, and vitamin C. Other causes of eating their own poop maybe: stress, stress of being weaned, change of diet, and environmental changes.
If you find that your bird is eating its own droppings, it is recommended to have your bird examined by an avian vet. The vet will be able to do an examination of your bird, and prescribe a good vitamin supplement, if vitamin depletion is the cause of course.
WHY UV LIGHT IS IMPORTANT IN PARROT HEALTH
Light isn’t just for seeing; it’s vital for a parrot’s health. In the wild, parrots are exposed to natural sunlight, which contains ultraviolet (UV) rays. These rays do more than brighten their feathers; they help their bodies work properly.
Why UV matters: Parrots need UVB light to make vitamin D3 in their skin. Vitamin D3 helps them absorb calcium from their food, which keeps their bones, muscles, and beak strong. Without enough UVB, parrots can develop weak bones, poor feather condition, or even egg-laying problems in females.
UVA light is also important: Parrots can see into the UVA spectrum, which means UV changes how they see the world—affecting how they find food, recognise other birds, and even choose mates. Without UVA, their environment may look dull and stressful.
How to provide safe UV light: Indoor parrots don’t get much natural sunlight through windows (glass blocks most UV). A bird-safe UV lamp, designed specifically for parrots, can fill that gap. The lamp should be placed where your parrot can choose to sit in the light or move away. Too much UV, or the wrong type, can cause eye or skin problems. In short: Use only UV bulbs made for birds—never reptile or tanning lights. Replace bulbs as often as the manufacturer suggests, even if they still look bright. Provide shaded areas so your parrot can control how much UV they get. If possible, give your parrot short periods of safe, supervised outdoor time in natural sunlight. UV light keeps your parrot healthy inside and out helping them absorb vital nutrients, see the world as they should, and stay active and happy. Just make sure the source is safe, bird-specific, and offered in moderation.
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